Discourse Analysis of Cosmetic Maybelline Advertising

Available online: 30/12/2021 Abstract.The writing of words in print media advertisements is certainly influenced by the elements and structures of its own discourse. This study analyzes the elements and structures of cosmetic advertising discourse used by cosmetic manufacturers in promoting their products. The research approach used in this research is qualitative research by taking samples from Maybelline cosmetic advertisements contained in Seventeen Magazine 2012. Based on the analysis of elements and structures contained in Maybelline cosmetic advertisements, the elements used in the discourse of cosmetic advertisements are verbal elements and visual elements. while the structure of the discourse that appears is the opening, the content and the closing.


INTRODUCTION
One of the discourse-forming structures as a whole consists of an introduction, content and closing which must be arranged in such a way as to form a complete and interesting discourse (Sobur, 2001:73). A discourse has a basic framework that includes the arrangement or series of structures or elements in forming a unified coherent form. So, it can be concluded that the series of structures is the plot of a discourse. In this case the series of structures are the opening, the content and the closing. Although broadly speaking, the structure of the discourse consists of the three structures above, but it is different from the structure of the discourse of cosmetic advertising which does not only consist of text, but also consists of images or visual elements. This causes discourse analysis on cosmetic advertisements to be more complex than discourse analysis on a text.
Cosmetic advertisements in Seventeen magazine were chosen because this print magazine is a magazine that is intended for women from adolescence to adulthood where there is more information about beauty than other information, such as news information or the latest gossip. In this case, the discourse of cosmetic advertising has characteristics and elements in which these elements cannot be separated from one another.
In the cosmetic advertising discourse in Seventeen magazine, there are elements that build an advertising discourse in which these elements cannot be separated from one another. When an advertising discourse is formed, these elements build a blend that is certainly cohesive and coherent. In addition, the building elements of an advertising discourse have their respective functions or roles, this linguistic phenomenon that researchers want to examine.
The selection of cosmetic advertisements as data for this research is because the researcher realizes that there is a significant difference between news discourse and cosmetic advertising discourse. Most of the news discourse, only uses a few visual elements in it, usually the visual element used in news discourse is an image of the event being reported or the character being reported.
In this study, we discussed in more depth the structure contained in the cosmetic advertising discourse, where each of these structures has important parts in the advertising discourse. As described in the theoretical basis, in general an advertisement has several parts, namely headline, illustration(s), body copy, signature line, and standing details. These sections have their own place in the discourse structure of cosmetic advertisements. The structural parts of cosmetic advertisements in the discourse structure have different characteristics from other discourses.
Discourse analysis is an investigation of a much wider scope of form and function of what is said and written (Yule, 1996:143). Mulyana said that discourse is a series of interrelated sentences, which connect propositions with one another in a unified meaning (2005: 5) (see also Aprinica: 2016).
Discourse classification is needed to understand, describe and analyze discourse appropriately. Aprinica (2016:15) sorts out discourse based on several aspects, namely form, media, number of speakers and nature. However, based on research needs, the discourse classification used is only discourse classification based on form and style and purpose. Mulyana (2005:47-50,63-66) divides discourse into 6 (six) types, namely: narrative discourse, expository, hortatory, epistolic, and dramatic. Narrative discourse is a form of discourse that is widely used to tell a story. The form of narrative discourse generally begins with the opening paragraph, content, and closing. Procedural discourse is a discourse that is used to provide instructions or information on how something should be done. Expository discourse is discourse that explains something informatively and the language it uses tends to be denotative and rational. Hortatory discourse is a discourse that is used to influence listeners or readers to be interested in the opinions expressed. The last is dramatic discourse, the discourse is a form of discourse that contains conversations between speakers and as much as possible avoids or minimizes the nature of the narrative in it (see also Aprinica: 2016). Sobur (2001:73) in the theory of discourse structure says that there are three main structures of the discourse analysis framework, namely: macro structure, superstructure, and micro structure (see also Aprinica: 2016). According to Halliday, the integrity of the discourse structure is closer in meaning as a meaningful (semantic) unity than as a form (syntax) (Mulyana, 2005:25). A series of sentences is said to be a discourse structure if there is an emotional (meaningful) relationship between one part and another. A complete discourse is a discourse that contains integrated and unified aspects, namely elements of cohesion and elements of coherence. The cohesion element includes grammatical, lexical, phonological aspects, while the coherence element includes semantic aspects and topicalization aspects (Aprinica, 2016: 19) (see also mulayawan: 2005).
Discourse Analysis of Cosmetic Maybelline Advertising -Ni Putu Isha  62 The data that used in this study are cosmetic advertisements in the 2012 edition of Seventeen Magazine. The selected cosmetic advertisements are advertisements that display cosmetic products which are products used on the face. This cosmetic product is not a product that is used to clean the face but is a cosmetic product that functions to add to the user's beauty.

RESEARCH METHOD
The research approach used in this study is qualitative research by taking samples from cosmetic advertisements in the 2012 edition of Seventeen Magazine. The data collection used in this research were the selected cosmetic advertisements which are cosmetics products used on the face. Data collection was done descriptively, and the data obtained were in the form of words, pictures and not numbers. Sampling of cosmetic advertisements contained in the English language Seventeen magazine and no sampling from other communities. Researchers use the documentation method as a data collection method. The data analyzed in this study are cosmetic advertisements contained in the English language Seventeen magazine. The magazine was chosen because in Seventeen magazine there are various advertisements that attract the attention of the girls, including cosmetic advertisements.

RESULT AND DISCUSSION 4.1 Elements of Print Advertising Based on the Media
Based on the media, there are two main elements, namely verbal elements and non-verbal elements or visual elements. These two elements form a harmonious coherence and cohesion in forming an advertisement.

A. Verbal Element
The verbal element in an advertising discourse is an element that has the function of explaining a product through words or writing. The information to be conveyed by the producer is poured through verbal elements. Mulyawan explained that verbal analysis is an analysis that uses linguistic elements such as lexical and grammatical elements. The analysis is an analysis of the cohesion of a text (2005, p25). Halliday and Hasan (1976) distinguish cohesive devices into two parts, namely grammatical cohesion devices and lexical cohesion devices (see also Mulyawan, 2005).
Discourse on cosmetic product advertisements uses a lot of verbal elements in it. This is because there is a lot of information that producers want to convey through these cosmetic advertisements. Verbal elements in cosmetic advertising discourse can consist of several words or several sentences. For example, in Sally Hansen's advertisement, the advertisement consists of three main structures of advertising discourse, namely opening, content, and closing. In the opening structure the verbal element is shown in the sentence: (A1) "NEW! A stroke of moisturizing genius!" (A2) "Moisture twist 2-in-1 primer + color" Both sentences are opening sentences that function as an introduction or product introduction. While the second structure is the content structure, which consists of two parts, namely: (A3) "Prime & color lips in just one moisturizing twist. The primer sets a smooth, super moisturizing base for flawlessly smooth shiny lips." (A4) "+30% more moisture, instantly. Conditioning formula has jojoba, sunflower & Moroccan argan oils. Non-sticky, weightless feel.
Each of these sections consists of two or more sentences, which are related information about the content or advantages of the product. The last structure is the closing structure, which is a structure that only consists of a few words, namely: (A5) "10 Luminous shades" (A6) "Beauty that works" Both parts are closing words which are additional information about the product.
When an advertisement does not have a complete advertisement discourse structure, then one part of the discourse structure of the advertisement will use more verbal elements.

B. Visual Element
Visual elements or non-verbal elements are elements that function to mix and match a certain verbal element using images or icons so that the advertisement can form a cohesive and coherent advertising discourse. icon is a marker that displays the condition of reality it represents. Visual elements are usually included in the illustration advertising structure, in cosmetic advertising discourse visual elements are usually in the form of pictures of cosmetic products and photos of women. The visual elements that are highlighted in the discourse of cosmetic advertisements vary according to the cosmetic product being advertised. For example, advertisement for an eyeshadow cosmetic product, the visual elements that are more highlighted are the eyes of the advertising model or for example an advertisement for an eyeliner product that shows the eye line more.
Every visual element contained in the discourse of cosmetic advertisements is mostly a visualization of the verbal elements in the advertisement. This is evidenced by the advertisements for cosmetic products that use women as the advertising model for these products. For example, in the Master Precise Maybelline ad, this ad is an eyeliner ad, which is a cosmetic product that can thicken the eye line on the eyelids, eyeliner is a beauty product that is often used by some women, because this product can make the eyes look bigger and more beautiful. Judging from its function, the visual element used is an image of a female model whose eyes are drawn using Maybelline's precise master product. There are three main components of visual elements, namely images of cosmetic products and two images of the same woman used in this advertisement. The image of the female model has a different style, namely first, in the form of an image of a woman's face that only shows half of her face, the model positions her face obliquely. He uses eyeliner cosmetic products from Master Precise products, not only using them in the eyes but also crossing the eyelids and adding images such as tattoo designs. and the second picture is a picture of a female model as a whole, the whole thing here is that the model not only shows her face but also half of her body.
Discourse Analysis of Cosmetic Maybelline Advertising -Ni Putu Isha  64

Figure 1
The model is wearing a black dress and blonde hair. The style used by the model is sitting sideways so that it shows the side of her face that uses eyeliner. The first image has a function to show and introduce eyeliner products, this can be seen from the clarification of the eyes of the model using Master Precise products. While the second picture shows the final result of using the product.

Figure 2
The same thing is also found in the advertisement for cosmetic eyeshadow products, in the advertisement there are three main components of visual elements, namely two images of female models and images of the product. The first image is an image of the model's face which is only shown in half, but unlike the Master Precise product ad, this ad model does not use a sideways style but faces the reader with his eyes closed. The model closes his eyes so that the reader can see clearly and thoroughly the colors displayed by the product. The color of the eyeshadow or eyelid dye used by the model is purple, which if you look closely the color fades at the top. While the second image is the overall image of the model's face. The model is wearing a white dress and is standing and facing the camera. In both the first and second pictures, the model does not use brightly colored lipstick. The model uses a pale pink lipstick that almost matches her skin tone. This is so that readers can concentrate more on the color of the model's eyelids.
The use of model images that only show half of their faces is also found in the New Dream Bouncy advertising product. In the advertisement, only two visual elements are used, namely the image of the model's face which is only shown halfway and the product image being advertised. The model does not use dye on her eyelids but uses rouge on her cheeks. The model is styled as if she is applying the New Dream Bouncy blush product.
In contrast to cosmetic advertisements that are used on the eyes and cheeks, in lip cosmetics advertisements, the use of model images by only showing half of her face is not visible. In lip cosmetics advertisements, the visual elements used are still the same, namely female models, but the style used by these models is different from eye and cheek cosmetic product advertisements. For example, in the New Baby Lips lip balm advertisement, the advertisement uses two visual elements, namely the image of a woman and the image of the advertised product. The image of the female model in the advertisement using lip balm from the advertised product with the color displayed is a pale pink color. The female model is styled facing forward while holding a note containing information related to the New Baby Lips product.
The use of visual elements in cosmetic advertising discourse is an element that must exist in advertisements. This makes the visual element has its own portion in the discourse of cosmetic advertising. The portion also depends on the type of cosmetic product advertised. As has been explained above regarding the visual elements in eye cosmetic products, in lip cosmetic product advertisements, the portion of the visual elements used is slightly different. In the advertisement of lip cosmetic products, namely lipstick and lip balm, the visual element that is mostly used is the image of the variation of the product. As seen in Sally Hansen's Moisture Twist cosmetic ad. In the advertisement, only one image of a woman is used, while there are many product images of the lipstick. This indicates that manufacturers want to highlight the color variations of these cosmetic products.

C. Cohesion and Coherence of Verbal and Non-Verbal Elements
In cosmetic advertising discourse, there are two mutually cohesive and coherent elements, namely verbal elements and non-verbal elements. The verbal element in an advertising discourse is an element that has the function of explaining a product through words or writing. The information to be conveyed by the producer is poured through verbal elements. Mulyawan explained that verbal analysis is an analysis that uses linguistic elements such as lexical and grammatical elements. The analysis is an analysis of the cohesion of a text (2005, p25). Halliday and Hasan (1976) distinguish cohesive devices into two parts, namely grammatical Discourse Analysis of Cosmetic Maybelline Advertising -Ni Putu Isha cohesion devices and lexical cohesion devices (see also Mulyawan, 2005). The verbal element also functions to explain something related to the quality of cosmetic products that cannot be explained by non-verbal elements, for example in the New Covergirl Blastflipstick ad, in which the ad contains the following sentence: (C1) "Creamy color on one side" (C2) "Shimmery color on the flip side" The two sentences are explanations or information about the quality of the New Covergirl Blastflipstick cosmetic product. The quality is in the form of a thick color on one side and a shiny color on the other. Usually, the body copy ad structure is a structure that talks more about the quality of the advertised product. However, it is undeniable that in the structure of the headline advertisement there is also an explanation of one of the qualities of cosmetic products.
For example, in the New Color Tatoo advertisement, the headline in the advertisement contains the sentence "Dare to wear our longest-lasting shadow". The phrase "longest-lasting" is a phrase that describes the quality of the eye dye which is the most durable. According to Chaer, a phrase is defined as a grammatical unit in the form of a combination of words that are non-predicative, this means that the relationship between the two elements that make up a phrase is not structured as a subject-predicate or a subject-predicate structure (2012, P222). Some cosmetic advertising discourses often use a combination of several phrases to be used in the headline, for example in the New Super Stay 10hr Stain Gloss advertisement which uses the phrases "lasting color" and "vibran sheen". The phrase shows information about the product having a long-lasting color and vivid sheen.
Meanwhile, visual elements or non-verbal elements are elements that function to interpret certain verbal elements using images or icons. icon is a marker that displays the condition of reality it represents. Visual elements are usually included in the illustration advertising structure, in cosmetic advertising discourse visual elements are usually in the form of pictures of cosmetic products and photos of women. The visual elements that are highlighted in the discourse of cosmetic advertisements vary according to the cosmetic product being advertised. For example, an advertisement for an eyeshadow cosmetic product, the visual elements that are more highlighted are the eyes of the advertising model or for example an advertisement for an eyeliner product that shows the eye line more. Whereas in lip cosmetic advertisements, models use lipstick or lip balm from the advertised product, so that the non-verbal element that is more highlighted is the lip color of the model. Often when an eye cosmetic, such as eyeshadow or eye color and eyeliner or eyeliner, the advertiser focuses on the eyes of the model, the model will not use other cosmetics or use cosmetics that do not stand out. Likewise, if the advertisement is an advertisement for lip cosmetics, the model will not use other cosmetics or use a more neutral or calm cosmetic color. This is intended so that readers stay focused on the advertised product, so that the message that the advertiser wants to convey to the reader can be conveyed.
Cohesion and coherence in verbal and non-verbal elements are needed when a cosmetic advertising discourse does not have a balance between verbal and nonverbal elements. The imbalance can be in the form of more verbal elements than non-verbal elements or vice versa. This imbalance is found in several cosmetic advertisements, for example in the New Rimmel Kate cosmetic advertisement, in which the non-verbal elements are more prominent than the verbal elements. This is evidenced by the lack of verbal elements contained in the advertisement. The verbal element contained in the advertisement only appears in the structure of the headline and signature line, the verbal element shown in the structure of the headline advertisement is in the form of a sentence.

A. Opener
The opening structure in advertising discourse is a structure that has a function as an "introduction" or structure that introduces the advertisement to the public. So that in this structure there are several parts of the advertising structure, namely headlines and illustration(s).

• Headlines
Headline is the opening part of an advertisement; it can be said that it is the headline that makes readers of print ads feel interested in seeing an advertisement. For example, in Maybelline's Great Lash cosmetic advertisement, the researcher found that if there were three sentences that opened the advertisement, they were: (C1) "Lots of lashes, lots of impact. Not a lot of mess."(more lashes, stronger impact, no mess). (C2) "An innovation from Great Lash" (the latest innovation from Great Lash products). (C3) "New lots of lashes mascara" (new, mascara with more brushes).
From sentence (C1) it can be seen that the word "lots" which means "many" is used more than once. This gives a first impression that can attract the attention of readers so that they are interested in reading the entire cosmetic ad. While sentence (C2) contains one of the opening information that the producer wants to convey, namely that this product is one of the latest innovations from Great Lash products. This is marked by the word "innovation" which means "renewal". Sentence (C3) is the name of the latest product from Great Lash, this is indicated by the word "new" which confirms that the product is indeed the newest product from Great Lash.
In addition to the sentence in the headline in the form of an opening information sentence in the discourse of cosmetic advertisements, the headline can also be in the form of a sentence of command and a slogan. As in the ad "New Baby Lips Maybelline". In this ad there is an opening sentence as follows: (C4) "Read my lips: NO MORE BASIC LIP BALM" (C5) "Give me visible lip renewal + 8-hr hydration"(give me visible lip renewal + eight hours of moisture) The sentence "read my lips" in example (10) is an example of a commanding sentence contained in Maybelline's new baby lips advertisement, the sentence is expected to attract the attention of readers to focus on the lips of the model. While the phrase "NO MORE BASIC LIP BALM" is the slogan of the product "New Baby Lips Maybelline".

• Illustration(s) Headline
Illustration(s) is the background of an ad that provides Illustration(s) of the ad. Illustration(s) in this case is an image that represents the words that are part of the headline. For example in the Great Lash cosmetic ad, Illustration is shown by an image, which is a visual image of eyes that have thick and many eyelashes. This Discourse Analysis of Cosmetic Maybelline Advertising -Ni Putu Isha  image represents the first sentence of the headline, "Lots of lashes, lots of impact. Not a lot of mess." However, unlike the advertisement for new baby lips, in this advertisement the illustration is shown with a verbal element, namely the sentence "new baby lips: spf 20 lip moisturizing balm". This sentence aims to explain the moisture provided by the product "new baby lips", the illustration structure part in the advertisement is indicated by the word "moisturizing" which means moisturizing.

B. Contents
Content is the structure of advertising discourse that can be said to be the core of an advertisement. Content also serves to provide information about the characteristics of the advertised product. The body can consist of body copy and Illustration(s).

• Body Copy
Body copy is the body or content of an advertisement which contains information and messages from the advertisement. This is indicated by the phrase "Our great little grabber brush reaches even the tiniest lashes. So you can easily create masses of lashes, minus the mess. Great!"(Our small holder brush reaches even the tiniest lashes. So you can easily create thick lashes without mess. Great!).
The sentence provides information about Maybelline's latest Great Lash product, namely the advantages of the product and what the product can do.
Like in Maybelline's great lash advertisement, in Maybelline's new baby lips advertisement, the body copy cosmetic advertisement structure in the content advertisement discourse structure contains the main information of the advertised product. In Maybelline's new baby lips ad, there are several informational sentences, namely: (C6) "THE SECRET: EXCLUSIVE LIP RENEW FORMULA" ( Secret: a new formula for soft and beautiful lips). (C7) "With SPF 20 protection, our exclusive clinically tested formula moisturizes lips for a full 8 hours." (with SPF 20 protection, our new moisturizing formula can protect lips for eight hours). (C8) "After 4 weeks, lips are visibly renewed, completely reborn". (C9) "Available in 6 varieties" From sentence (C6) it can be seen that the word "the secret" which means "secret" in Maybelline's new baby lips advertisement is written in big letters and in bold, this indicates that the manufacturer wants readers to be interested in the secret of the product. This is supported by the sentence "exclusive lip renew formula" written in capital letters, the sentence implies that in the latest product from Maybelline's new baby lips there is a new formula that can provide beautiful and moist lips.
While sentences (C7) and (C8) are informational sentences containing the content contained in Maybelline's new baby lips advertisement and the results that will be obtained from regular use for four weeks. The sentence (C9) "Available in 6 varieties" can be seen written in pink and in bold, this represents the color of Maybelline's new baby lips lip balm, so that readers can imagine the color of the lip balm. In addition, the sentence provides information that the product is available in six variations.
Although most of the body copy in the structure of the content of advertising discourse uses verbal elements. However, in Maybelline's new baby lips advertisement, the advertiser also uses visual elements in conveying information related to the advertised product. This is indicated by the use of a table accompanied by information about the changes that occur while using the product from Maybelline's new baby lips and a picture of the lips that shows the difference between before and after using Maybelline's new baby lips product. Body copy as the main information provider regarding the quality of cosmetic products is found in almost all cosmetic advertisements. In addition to Maybelline's new baby lips product advertisement.

• Illustration(s) Body Copy
Illustration(s) are not only found in the opening structure, but also in the body structure. The illustration(s) on Maybelline's Great Lash cosmetic advertisement are shown through the image of Maybelline's Great Lash product and the brush bristles contained in the product. This represents information from the sentences contained in the body copy.
Like Maybelline's great lash advertisement, Maybelline's new baby lips cosmetic advertisement also uses illustrations in the form of images of Maybelline's new baby lips products. This is so that readers can know the shape of Maybelline's new baby lips product. Likewise with the "Blast flipstick covergirl" ad, this ad uses product images as an illustration of the structure of the content, but in this ad the product image is intended to describe the color choices available on the "Blast flipstick covergirl" product. This is because there is little information that is conveyed verbally in the structure of the content so that producers feel the need to display these images.

C. Closing
The closing is basically in the form of the latest information related to the company where the advertisement is made, but it is also possible that the cover contains product information contained in the advertisement. The cover has a function as the end of an advertising discourse, the cover usually contains a slogan or the name of the company making the advertising product, besides that the cover also represents the end result of the use of cosmetic products to the advertising model. So that in this structure there are illustrations, standing details, and Signature Lines.

• Illustration
Illustration can also be found in the cover structure, this can be seen in Maybelline's great lash advertisement shown in the image of a female model who has used make-up that focuses on eye make-up so that readers can see that the model is wearing Maybelline's greatlash product. Like Maybelline's great lash advert, Maybelline's new baby lips ad also uses a visual image of a female model as an illustration, what's different is that the model doesn't use makeup on her face but only uses lip balm from Maybelline's new baby lips product. This is so that readers can see the results of using the product.

• Standing Details
Standing details are the foot or cover of an advertisement, which is usually found at the bottom or end of the advertisement. This section is usually in the form